Seoul, the capital of South Korea, is the vibrant heart of the Asian country. For some a great starting point for a round trip through South Korea, for others a transfer of up to 24 hours. For many travelers Seoul in South Korea is still relatively unknown. With this article I mainly want to show you how nice Seoul is. And I hope to inspire you to visit this immense city. Which officially is called Seoul Special City, by the way.
In this article
- 1: See Palaces and Temples
- 2: City tour with guide
- 3: Walk the Seoul City Wall Trail
- 4: Explore Bukchon Hanok Village
- 5: Look at art
- 6: Discover Gangnam
- 7: Visit Lotte World
- 8: View from the N Seoul Tower
- 9: Walk through the park
- 10: Shop till you drop
- 11: Visit the markets of Seoul
- 12: Enjoy Korean food
- 13: Learn how to cook Korean
- 14: Going out in Seoul
- Accommodation in Seoul
- Map Seoul and Zuid Korea
- How to get from A to B in Seoul
- SIM and WiFi in Seoul and Zuid Korea
- The weather in Seoul and South Korea
1: See Palaces and Temples
In Seoul you should of course visit the most important buildings, especially palaces and temples. It is an essential part of South Korea’s history. The most important temples and palaces worth visiting in Seoul are:
- Changdeok Palace, UNESCO world heritage
- Jogyesa Temple, a Buddhist Zen temple
- Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace with the large entrance gate Gwanghwamun
- Deoksugung Palace (Palace of Virtuous Longevity), also known as Gyeongungung, Seogung or Deoksu Palace with two European style buildings
- Cheongwadae Sarangchae, also known as The Blue House
The Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul is a fine example of architecture from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897). This is the main palace, one of the most impressive in Asia. Unfortunately, the Japanese destroyed part of it in 1911. Watch the changing of the guard. During a visit to this palace you will immediately see the mountain that lies to the north of it, Bugaksan, also known as Baegaksan.
The entrance fee for adults is 3,000 KRW (won, approx. € 2.25). South of Gyeongbokgung Palace is a statue promenade and a square. Young girls like to do one here Gyeongbokgung Hanbok Photo Shoot.
The best times to visit Jogyesa Temple are Buddha’s birthday or during the Lotus Lantern Festival, if you do not mind crowds. Then the courtyard of the temple is decorated with paper lanterns. Near the temple are a few trees that are more than 500 years old. Buddhist souvenirs are sold in surrounding stalls.
2: City tour with guide
In the beginning, I certainly did not find Seoul an easy city to find my way around. For example, I got on the wrong bus (after asking three times), walked soms unintentional detours, etc. Bit of a waste of time actually. I would therefore heartily recommend to book a city tour with a guide on your first or second day in Seoul. This gives you a good first impression of the city and helps you orientate yourself.
A guided tour is a comfortable way to see and hear many things in a short time. During such a tour you often get to see and hear things that you might otherwise miss out on if you were on your own. A local guide can show you the hidden gems and tell you all about the interesting history and current situation of the city. Guide speaks English.
- Seoul City Highlights Tour in One Day by Bus
- Panoramic Seoul full day tour with E-bikes
- Korean Culture and Heritage Seoul Half Day Bike Tour
- Seoul Highlights Segway City Tour Afternoon with Korean BBQ
- Private day tour during stop-over from Incheon International Airport (min 2 pers.)
3: Walk the Seoul City Wall Trail
Do you enjoy walking and to see a less well-known side of the city? Then go for a walk along the old city wall of Seoul from 1396. This wall runs around the old city. The Seoul City Wall Trail of 18.6 km in total consists of six different stages, see also the detailed map:
- Baegak Mountain Trail from Changuimun Gate – Hyehwamum Gate (4.7 km, ca 3 uur)
- Naksan Mountain Trail from Hyehwamun Gate – Heunginjimun Gate (2.1 km, ca 1 uur)
- Huenginjimun Gate Trail from Huenginjimun Gate -Jangchung Gymnasium (1.8 km, app. 1 hour)
- Namsan (Mongmyyeoksan) Mountain Trail from Jangchung Gymnasium – Baekbeom Square (4.2 km, 3 hours)
- Sungnyemun Gate Trail from Baekbeom Square – Site of Donium Gate (1.8 km, app. 1 hour)
- Inwangsan Mountain Trail from Site of Donium Gate – Changuimun Gate (4.0 km, app. 2.5 hours)
4: Explore Bukchon Hanok Village
Walking around Bukchon Hanok Village feels a bit like an open air museum, but it’s not set up for tourists. There are about 900 traditional houses (hanok) here that are more than six centuries old. Everything is neatly maintained. Korean girls walk around in traditional costumes. Stroll through the winding streets and browse the shops selling traditional art objects.
Bukchon Hanok Village is located between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace. The most visited area is around Bukchon-ro 11na-gil. For example, visit a traditional Korean tea house. There are also several nice modern cafes, such as Small House Cafe, Jiyugaoka and Kiwa Tap Room (beer). See map at the bottom of this article for locations. Subway: Anguk.
If you want to see even more hanok, Namsangol Hanok Village is a must. Namsangol Hanok Village is located in Pil-dong (Jung-gu) district, on the north side of Namsan Mountain. Namsangol Hanok Village is also known as A Village of Traditional Houses in the Namsan Valley. An ancient village that is now part of the city. The houses date from the Joseon Dynasty, just like the aforementioned Gyeongbokgung Palace.
5: Look at art
Like many other metropolises, Seoul has a lot to offer art lovers. The city has at least 15 art museums, of which the Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA) and the National Museum of Modern Contemporary Art (MMCA) are the two most important. Art comes to life in digital art space L’Atelier, which is especially fun with someone who doesn’t mind taking a lot of photos. Trick Eye Museum Seoul is similar. For other, smaller art museums, see the map at the bottom of this article.
If you – like me – are interested in street art, don’t miss Ihwa Mural Village. Insadong Arts and Crafts Market Ssamziegil is also worth a visit. This small shopping center contains about 70 shops and galleries, spread over four floors. Here you can undoubtedly score a unique and artistic souvenir, handmade by a local artist. For locations see map in the last part of this article.
If you are not that interested in art, but want to know more about the history of South Korea, visit the National Museum of Korea in Seoul. The Beautiful Tea Museum is fun for tea lovers. They have over 100 sorts of te!
6: Discover Gangnam
There is such a 24/7 atmosphere in Gangnam. Everything is open late and very lively. There is always something to do here. Shopping, going out, just whatever you feel like. The neighborhood has of course become extra famous for the K-Pop song Gangnam Style by PSY. Start at Sinnonhyeon Station and walk around. Also visit K-Star Road, Cheongdam-dong and Seonjeongleung Thombs & Park, see map at the bottom of this article.
The prices are quite high in Gangnam. At exit 11 and 12 of Gangnam Station you will find long alleys with many restaurants, cafes, bars, etc. Take the metro a little further for the Bongeunsa Temple and COEX. For shopping tips, see later in this article. You can easily enjoy yourself here for a full day and not have seen everything yet.
7: Visit Lotte World
Lotte Town is the area surrounding Jamsil Station in Seoul. This nickname comes from the predominant presence of Lotte World and Lotte World Tower. Lotte World is a large recreational complex that includes the world’s largest indoor amusement park with aquarium and outdoor amusement park Magic Island.
Lotte World Tower is a skyscraper with an observation deck on the 123rd floor, a gigantic shopping center, restaurants, cinemas, sports facilities, Korean folk museum, etc. Next to it are a luxury hotel and two Lotte department stores. There is a Lotte Outlets in Seoul Station.
8: View from the N Seoul Tower
Towards the Lotte World Tower, Seoul has another tall tower: the N Seoul Tower, also known as YTN Seoul Tower, Namsan Tower, or Seoul Tower. This is a communication and observation tower of 236 meters high, located on Namsan Mountain.
On a clear day, from the N Seoul Tower you have a beautiful view of the city from one of the many observation platforms and restaurants. You can also take a cable car up the mountain to enjoy the view.
9: Walk through the park
Escape the bustle of the city for a while and walk around in the greenery is good for a person. Seoul has quite a few parks, with Namsan Mountain Park being the largest. In Tapgol Park you will find many monuments. There are large parks around the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace and the Changdeokgung Palace.
Samcheong Park is also large and offers nice views of the city. Samcheong is a nice neighborhood to stroll through anyway. Bukchon Hanok Village is officially one of them. Walk a little further north, it’s quieter there. You will find old houses and nice authentic coffee shops. For example Cafe Breezin, for location see map at the bottom of this article.
10: Shop till you drop
Seoul is truly a mecca for shopaholics. Both above and below ground you will find an endless amount of shops. For example, here is the world’s largest underground shopping center: COEX. Myeongdong’s main street is popular with tourists and locals alike, who love cosmetics and other beauty products.
Personally, I like the charm of Insadon. There you will find antiques, vintage, handmade products, tea houses and galleries.
Top 10 Department Stores and Shopping Areas in Seoul:
- Myeongdong Market (from clothes to cosmetics and everything in between)
- Dongdaemun Market (26 malls and Mukja Golmok Korean Street Food alley)
- Hongdae Market (art galleries, fashion outlets, weekend market 13:00-18:00h)
- COEX Mall Gangnam (shopping mall plus COEX Aquarium, Starfield Library, LEGO Bricklive)
- Lotte Department Store Myenongdong
- Apgujeong Gangnam (Galleria Shopping Mall, Apgujeong Rodeo Street)
- Itaewon (tailors, leather, antiques, Seoul’s Special Tourism District with international food)
- Mecenatpolis Mall (open-air at Hapjeong train station, photogenic neighbourhood)
- Goto Mall (underground between Express Bus Terminal Station and Banpo Station, cinema)
- Galleria Department Store Gangnam
11: Visit the markets of Seoul
What could be more fun than visiting a local market? I love it! You can of course do this on tour oen (nice anyway). Or go out with a guide, who can tell you about the ingredients, etc. that are for sale. And can give tips so that you don’t pay too much.
- Namdaemun Market, South Korea’s oldest and largest traditional market (since 1414)
- Noryangjin Fish Market
- Gwangjang Market
- Seoul Folk Flea Market
Are you going on a tour of South Korea and are you fond of shopping? Then make sure you add a few more days in Seoul at the end of your trip. Then you can happily return home with a full suitcase (and not carry everything with you during your round trip).
12: Enjoy Korean food
Have you ever had Korean food? I find it tasty and varied. With the use of sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger and rice, you could call Korean cuisine ‘typically Asian’. But Koreans really give the food their own unique stamp with chili peppers, among other things. Koreans love a lot of side dishes, which is collectively called banchan. And kimchi are fermented, sour and spicy vegetables that you see on the table with almost every meal.
I personally find Korean BBQ very tasty and cozy. Other popular, typical Korean dishes include bibimbap (rice with vegetables, egg and possibly beef), bulgogi (meat dish), galbi (ribs), hotteok (pancakes), mandu (dumplings) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cake). Note: beondegi are steamed silk moth pupae, yuk! Salad usually consists of raw, finely chopped vegetables. And yes, they eat everything here with stainless steel chopsticks or a soup spoon.
Many dining options can be found at markets (street food) and shopping centers (food court). Seoul has a coffee culture with many coffee bars and small trucks on the streets. Are you traveling alone but don’t feel like eating alone for an evening? Join the Korean Night Food Tour!
맛있게 드세요! Mas-issge deuseyo! In other words: enjoy your meal! You Will get the slurping with it for free 😉
If Korean cuisine turns out not to be for you, or if you’re just fed up, no worries. Then you can always go to KFC, McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, Subway, etc. They are all here in Seoul, just like Starbucks. Koreans also love French bakeries, such as Paris Baguette and Tous les Jours.
Low budget food in Seoul
Do you have a low budget or don’t feel like going out for a fancy dinner again? There are countless places in Seoul where you can eat well for little money. Think, for example, of the aforementioned markets and food courts of department stores and shopping centers. Lotteria, for example, has cheap but tasty burgers.
But also canteens of universities (Yonsei, Hongik, Sogang), street vendors in Jongno and Hongdae (short for Hongik University) and small noodle places often offer dishes of
Vermijd straatverkopers in Myeongdong, want die richten zich op toeristen en vragen al gauw te veel. Ook restaurants in Itaewon en Gangnam staan bekend om hoge prijzen. Buurten als Hongdae en Shinchon (nabij Yonsei en Ehwa) hebben relatief veel restaurants die zich richten op studenten, met bijbehorende prijzen. Op Tripadvisor en dergelijke apps kun je ook eetgelegenheden filteren op prijscategorie.
13: Learn how to cook Korean
When I’m traveling I like to take a local cooking class so that I know how to make those delicious dishes at home. I’ve done this before in: Thailand, Israel and Italy. You can read more about this in the article The 3 Most Memorable Cooking Classes around the World. Next time I go to Seoul, I definitely want to take one of these cooking classes:
- Korean Cooking Class at Local Home and Market Tour
- Seoul: Korean Home Cooking Class
- Korean Cultural Experience: Kimchi Making, Hanbok Wearing and Tea Ceremony
14: Going out in Seoul
Whether you are in Seoul alone, as a couple or with a group, you owe it to the city to go out for at least one night. There is so much nightlife that you could enjoy yourself every night of the week. If you have the energy (and budget) for that.
Karaoke is popular and often done in Korea, but in a private circle. Just like in Japan, although in Tokyo I did manage to find a western style karaoke bar. In Seoul, for example at Prince Edward in the Hongdae district, you can rent a karaoke room 24 hours a day. That costs about 25,000 KRW per hour (about USD 21). Whether you’re happy or sad, sing it off! Noraebang means karaoke. Prince Edward also has a rooftop terrace.
Over rooftopbars gesproken; Seoul heeft een aantal leuke, zie de kaart onderaan dit artikel. In Hongdae, dat bekend staat als één van de beste uitgaansgebieden van Seoul, zitten er ook een paar, zoals Playground Rooftop Cafe & Bar en Rooftop 720. Een grappig voorbeeld is Urban Beach Rooftop. Daar kun je op de 6e en 7e verdieping met je voeten in het zand een cocktail drinken (±€10). Het is ca. 10 min lopen vanaf exit 1 van Sheung Shui Station (metrolijn 6). Je krijgt wel crocs bij het zand!
Another type of cafe that you see quite a lot in South Korean cities, just like in Japan, is an animal cafe. These cafes are actually more intended for afternoons. Have a cup of coffee or tea and cuddle with the dogs, cats or other animals that are present. Tip: wash your hands well after petting the animals, before eating.
There are also cafes in Seoul with animals that are not allowed to be kept as pets in western Europe, such as the meerkat, raccoon, etc. Please do not visit such a cafe; such tourism is not desirable and conducive to animal welfare.
The Pink Pool Cafe is totally Instagram proof, with locations in Hongdae and Myeongdong.
Fancy a party but traveling alone? Or would you just like to go with a group, to get to know the best nightlife spots in Seoul? Then join a Pub Crawl & Party Tour on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday evening. Soju is the Korean version of schnapps. You have been warned…
15: Stroll along the Cheonggyecheon
Cheonggyecheon is a river stream with pedestrian promenade that runs through downtown Seoul. This one is about 10.9 km (6.8 mi) long. It is a wonderful place to be, especially on an early, warm spring or summer evening. Strolling, paddling, catching up with your bestie… it’s all possible here. I liked the last part the most, see marking on the map at the bottom of this article.
Accommodation in Seoul
There is a huge choice of accommodation in Seoul. It’s just what you’re looking for. In the section below more information about which neighborhoods you can stay in.
What area of Seoul to stay in
If you are going to Seoul for the first time, Myeongdong is the most obvious neighborhood to stay in. It is closest to the main tourist sites and has a good night market with eateries and shops. There are also many bars, clubs, theaters, etc.
In addition, Myeongdong is within walking distance of Insadong and Dongdaemun. A great location for a first introduction to Seoul for a few days. This neighborhood can be a bit hectic and have a somewhat touristy atmosphere. Visit the 19th-century Myeongdong Cathedral. A strange duck in the bite.
If you stay longer in Seoul, you can also change location after a few days. Or if you’ve been to Seoul before, it’s nice to stay in a different district. Insadong is quieter, a bit more charming as far as I’m concerned. You can also enjoy walking and shopping there in the evening.
Looking for a neat hostel? Then Hostel Haru might be a good option for you. Super central to the Cheonggyecheon river stream!
Hongdae has a great atmosphere and good transport links. Jongno is also worth considering. In any case, choose a central location, near as many metro lines as possible and where you can find some liveliness in the evenings (bars, restaurants, shops) a short walk away.
I would not quickly choose Gangnam as my accommodation location. This is because it is always quite far to travel to the center. And also a challenge to find something affordable. From Gangnam it is soon a minimum of 40 min travel to Myeongdong and 45-60 min to Hongdae.
However, Gangnam is a nice neighborhood, where there is much to experience. If you can find affordable accommodation near metro line 9 and an express station (Sinnonhyeon, Seonjeongneung, Bongeunsa), you can still travel in all directions fairly easily. And, for example, be at Seoul Station in 20 minutes.
In a future article I will tell you more about trips you can do from Seoul and what you should visit during a South Korea round trip.
Map Seoul and Zuid Korea
This map includes places and spots mentioned in this article (and more). This one is ‘smartphone friendly’; you can easily use it via the Google Maps app. Click the icon at the top left to open the menu and see the categories. To adapt the map to your own preferences and interests, (de)select a category. Via Google Drive you can copy the map to your own My Google Maps account.
Fair enough; Google Maps doesn’t always work great in South Korea. In addition, you can, for example, use the navigation app Naver Map. KakaoMetro is also a popular app. To find restaurants in the area, check Tripadvisor and/or MangoPlate. For SIM card tips see later in this article.
How to get from A to B in Seoul
Seoul has an excellent public transport network. That makes traveling through the city (and beyond) quite easy and relatively cheap. It can be very busy in the metro, especially during rush hour. But if there is no metro or train going somewhere, there is always a bus. There is also a Hop On Hop Off bus in Seoul.
Uber has been operating in Seoul since early 2021. So far, Kakao T is the best taxi app in Seoul. Taxis are not expensive. Furthermore, you will probably do a lot of walking during your visit to Seoul. So wear good shoes or sandals. Renting a bike is also possible, but if you are not familiar with Seoul and the traffic rules, do this first with a guide.
From the airport to the city center
Once you have arrived at Incheon International Airport, beyond passport control and baggage claim, follow the ‘Airport Railroad (Express)’ signs to the train. The AREX Express Train departs from the lowest floor of the airport (second floor basement). You can buy a ticket in the machine for KRW 9,000 (approx. EUR 7).
You can also buy online your AREX Express train ticket before departing your home. This way you can travel quickly and cheaply from Incheon airport to the center of Seoul. Saves time on the spot. By train it takes:
- Incheon Airport – Seoul Station app. 1 hour (every 10 min)
- Incheon Airport – Gangnam Station more than 1.5 hour
- Gangnam Station – Gimpo Airport app. 1 hour
- Seoul Station – Gimpo Airport app. half hour
Less cheap but very comfortable is a privé transfer from Incheon airport to accommodation of your choice in Seoul. Extra pleasant if you are traveling with a family or group, for example. A shared shuttle bus (transfer) is cheaper and drops you – just like a private transfer – off on the door step of your accommodation.
There are various tourist cards for sale for public transport, etc. I myself bought a T-Money card at Seoul Station. With this you can travel by metro, bus, taxi, etc. and you can often pay with it in local shops.
Luggage storage Seoul
Do you have a long layover at Incheon International Airport and want to use that time for a short visit to Seoul? Checked baggage is often immediately labeled to the final destination. But if you have a carry-on suitcase, large backpack, laptop, etc. with you as hand luggage, that can be quite a burden during a short visit to the city. Or, for example, on your last day in Seoul, if you have already checked out at your hotel and your flight does not leave until the evening.
There are several paid options for storing luggage at Incheon and Seoul Station. You will see them when you will walk around there. There are free lockers in the Lotte Outlets store at Seoul Station (floors 2F and 3F, including near the toilets). There are several sizes of lockers (large enough for a carry-on suitcase) and they lock with a combination lock panel (numbers). Make sure you remember the number and to remove your luggage from the store before closing time!
Are you already in Seoul, are you flying out later that day/evening? Are you looking for a way to store your luggage in the meantime, so that you don’t have to drag it all over the city? If you fly with Korean Air or Asiana Air, you can already check in your large luggage at Seoul Station. Take the elevator to the underground floor where the green metro line departs. The luggage will be transported by the airline to Incheon Airport. Later on, you can travel to Incheon on the AREX train for your flight.
Business Lounges ICN
If you are a Frequent Flyer of Sky Team (KLM, Korean Air, Air France, etc.) like me, then you can store your hand luggage at Incheon International Airport (ICN) for free in one of the two Business Lounges. This is one of the best business lounges I’ve ever been to around the world. There are also showers, beds, good food, etc.
Both Korean Air business lounges are located on the 4th floor of the airport. The Prestige Class Lounge is on the east side. The Concourse Lounge in Concourse A. Both are open from 6:30 AM to 11:55 PM. You can also enter for a fee, but that is quite pricey. A few kilometers from the airport you will find accommodation for a few bucks.
Make sure you have enough cash with you. I was unable to use the ATM at the ATMs at Seoul Station. Not with my normal Meastro debit card and not with my Mastercard. To compress! And that while Asia was open geographically in my bank account at that time. In the end I exchaged the cash I had left from Japan for Korean cash at an exchange office on the ground floor of Seoul Station. Phew what a hassle, but oh well.
Then I immediately bought a T Money card at the StoreyWay store at Seoul Station and put money on it. You need this card for the bus, metro, etc. Once back at the airport, you can get back the credit that is still on your T Money card via the Deposit Refund Machine (see photo later in this article). Plus KRW 500 of the orange Single journey ticket Express train ticket. By the way, having some cash in your pocket is useful for street food, etc. I always like an exchange rate app for converting foreign currencies.
View the travel advice for South Korea from the government of the country where you live. Do you have Dutch nationality? Then it is currently (status 03.10.2021) not possible to get a tourist visa for South Korea. Hopefully that will come back soon. CIBT is always a good help for (information about) visas.
Stop-over at Incheon Airport
You do not need a visa for a visit of up to 24 hours (transit) from Incheon International Airport to Seoul. 24 hours is really very short. A transfer with Korean Air is usually about 12 hours. Before you get to the AREX train, you’ll be an hour further. Then there will be 2x an hour of your time for the back and forth between Incheon Airport and the center of Seoul.
Then you still have to change money, possibly store your luggage, arrange a T Money card, figure out where to go, etc. Plus time you need to check in for your new flight. Because of course you don’t want to miss your connecting flight. Net you often only have a few hours left to really explore the city. Short, but still worth it! Better than nothing.
SIM and WiFi in Seoul and Zuid Korea
To avoid incurring a lot of roaming costs on your own mobile subscription from home, it is best to buy a local SIM card or rent a mobile WiFi device. Options to arrange this in advance:
The weather in Seoul and South Korea
Seoul has quite large weather differences between the seasons. In summer it is humid and very hot with temperatures up to 35°C. On the other hand, in winter with winds from Siberia it can get very cold to about -20°C. Spring and autumn are therefore favorite seasons to visit Seoul and South Korea. It can also reach 25°C in April or May. Hopefully you will immediately notice the blossom trees or the autumn discoloration of the trees. Between June and September it rains quite a lot in South Korea.
Also take into account national holidays in South Korea when planning your trip. On those days it can be very busy in certain places and, for example, accommodation is scarce (read: more expensive). Think, for example, of visiting Buddhist temples; in January on Bodhi Day, Buddha’s Enlightenment, it is packed to the brim. Korean New Year in February takes three days.
Tip: in case of good weather, you can take this affordable private boat trip on a yacht on the Han River. In case of bad weather you can consider going to Paradise Wonderbox. This is an indoor family amusement park full of rides and festivities on Yeongjongdo Island near Incheon International Airport.
I hope you found this article interesting and inspiring. Feel free to share it on social media. Do you have plans to go to Seoul yourself? If you have any questions or perhaps an additional tip, feel free to leave a comment below. Have fun in Seoul!
Wil je meer van Zuid Korea zien? Ben je van plan om op rondreis door Zuid Korea te gaan? Lees dan verder in het nieuwste artikel Tips Zuid Korea rondreis en dagtrips vanuit bruisend Seoul.
Op deze website zijn nog veel meer artikelen over Aziatische bestemmingen te lezen. Kijk hiervoor in de Azië Blog Archieven. Overigens vind je in de Engelstalige Asia Blog Archives veel meer dan in de Nederlandstalige.
Last Updated on 10/22/2021 by Elisa Flitter Fever