Special experience: meeting a geisha or maiko in Japan

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Meeting a gracious geisha or maiko in person was a long-cherished wish. The mysterious white mask-like face, the jet black haircut, the demeanor, it intrigues me. For many years, Memoirs of A Geisha has been one of my absolute favorite films and books. How do you meet a geisha or maiko in real life? During my tour through Japan I managed to see both geishas and maikos, including at Miyako Odori. In this article I share my experience and tips.

Planning to visit Japan soon? Tip: via Japan Experience you can arrange all sorts of things in advance, such as Sim card or Pocket-Wifi, Pasmo or Suica cards and/or JR Pass.

What is a geisha? What is a Maiko?

A maiko is a geisha in training. They serve, dance, sing and play traditional Japanese musical instruments for the entertainment of guests. We are talking about a ‘she’ here, because only in the distant past could a geisha also be male. In appearance, maikos and geishas differ from each other in detail, so that it is recognizable whether it is a geisha or a maiko. Or a wanna be.

A geisha (芸者) is also called geiko (芸子) in Kyoto and Kanazawa or geigi (芸妓).

Maiko means ‘dancing child’. In Kyoto dialect the word ‘geiko’ is used for geisha, ‘woman of the arts’. Contrary to popular belief, a geisha is not a ‘woman of easy virtue’ (yujô). Although in the past professional practice was reportedly not always and everywhere limited to musical acts. In times of war everything becomes liquid? Within Japanese culture, geishas were associated with the elite, adored as top stars.

Geishas are highly educated women with broad general development. Nowadays they often also master the English language. Before a maiko can qualify to become a geisha, she must practice extensively during her training for at least five years. How to stand, bend, kneel, walk, sit, dance, sing, make music, converse, dress, make up, etc. A maiko has no money of her own, no mobile phone and no boyfriend.

Maikos and geishas differ in age, appearance and skills. Some examples:

• Maikos are usually between 15 and 20 years old, geishas over 20 years old.
• The kimono of a maiko has a red border (at the neck), that of a geisha is usually white.
• A maiko wears a red slip (nagajuban) under her kimono, a geisha wears a light colored one (white or pastel).
• Maikos wear more colorful kimonos than geishas.
• A maiko only makes the lower lip red in her first year, then both lips red.
• A maiko wears hairpins with floral strands during her first year.
• Maikos wear higher sandals (zori) than geishas.

Meeting a geisha or maiko in Japan

Since you are reading this article, I assume you are interested in meeting a geisha or maiko yourself in Japan. And that you wonder how best to do this. In this article I will discuss three options:

1. On the street (in the right neighborhood)
2. At a dance performance
3. At a tea or dinner ceremony

There are still several thousand maikos and geishas in Japan. They often work in tea houses (ochaya) in Kyoto and western Japan, such as Kanazawa. An exclusive tea or dinner ceremony accompanied by a geisha or experienced maiko is not cheap. Well worth it, if I may say so. But of course I don’t know how tight your budget is.

In principle, you will not find geishas in Tokyo. However, there is a lunch/dinner show that shows quite some resemblance.

The cheapest way to spot a geisha or maiko is on the street. You do need a lot of luck for that. Gion, a neighborhood in southeastern Kyoto, is busy because of this. Geishas have been walking around here since the 18th century, to and from their work in the tea houses, for example. But make no mistake, because there are also many Chinese and Koreans walking around, dressed in kimono or yukata. A guided tour and/or a lot of patience will help.

A dance performance to music is also an excellent way to see a geisha and/or maiko in real life in Japan. And not one, but dozens at a time. I would like to tell you more about this special cultural experience.

Performance Miyako Odori

It was not easy to find good information in advance about a geisha and/or maiko dance performance in Kyoto. Moreover, the performance I wanted to see was only held 3.5 weeks a year, around the flowering of the blossom trees in April. Still, I managed to get a ticket to one of Miyako Odori‘s spring performances, at the time still held at the Kyoto Art Theater Shunjuza. So lucky!

I received a confirmation of my reservation by email. I had to collect the actual entrance ticket from the theater box office before the start of the performance. When picking up they asked for my ID and order number. Makes sense because the tickets are prepaid online. There was a kind of lunchroom in the theater, where I met a nice French couple.

Attending a tea ceremony and dance performance with meikos and geishas in Kyoto was one of the most special moments of my round trip through Japan.

Maiko tea ceremony

I had ordered a ‘special’ entrance ticket, including tea ceremony in advance. This tea ceremony took place in a separate room before the dance performance in the main theater room. Less intimate than in a living room setting, but no less intriguing to watch.

Faces painted white, bright red lips, neat black hair. One in a purple kimono, the other a black kimono, both with a wide waistband and a kind of flap on the back. Both ladies shuffle across the floor towards the tea table. One kneels and the other moves in calm, graceful movements until she finally pours a cup of tea. How captivating can a cup of tea be!

The ceremony continues like this for a while. I am fascinated watching; I’ve never seen anything like this before. How beautiful of these ladies. Geisha training and the practice of this profession require a lot of discipline and perfection. It fits perfectly into the Japanese culture, in which such delicacy is elevated to a graceful art. Magnificent!

My tea ceremony was between 11:20 am and 12:20 pm, and the dance performance started at 12:30 pm. A room was also set up in the theater in which each maiko was presented individually. At least twenty different life size photos printed on cardboard, plus an introductory description.

Dancing maikos

The theater performance consists mainly of dance, but also singing and the shamisen instrument is played. That’s a three-stringed lute. It’s all in Japanese, but it’s clearly about the four seasons. Beautiful, colorful outfits, completely in sync, glide gracefully across the stage in smooth lines. The piece is dramatic, restrained and elegant at the same time. Truly a form of art.

Distant and intriguing at the same time. Perfectionist and graceful. The scene upholds the reputation and mystique surrounding the geisha and the maiko.

Apparently there is a professional video of Miyako Odori on YouTube now:

The performance in the theater lasted perhaps an hour. I don’t remember exactly. Lost the sense of time for a moment. Perhaps that is also what attracts local businessmen to visiting a tea house. Get away from the rat race at work. Let yourself be carried away in the enchanting world of a geisha. So elegant. I wouldn’t have missed this for anything.

Unfortunately, it was not officially allowed to take pictures during the tea ceremony and the theater performance. And I didn’t see anyone doing that either, so it felt extra inappropriate to do it anyway. During the dance performance I had a seat on the balcony. So I apologize in advance for the limited photos of this in this article.

Attend maiko performance in Kyoto

Would you like to attend a performance by Miyako Odori? Tickets for the Spring performances for April usually go on sale around January 6. More than a month later, tickets are often still available for several shows, but the weekend performances are selling out fast.

Tip: order your ticket(s) on time to avoid disappointment. Keep in mind that tickets that have already been paid can no longer be canceled or adjusted.

For three weeks, seven days a week, three performances a day. Very spicy for the performing ladies. The question is: at which location the performance will be held in 2025? The old location is undergoing a long-term renovation.

• Location: Kyoto MINAMIZA Theater
• When: first three weeks of April (exact dates may vary slightly from year to year)
• Tickets cost between JPY 4,000 and JPY 6,500 per person (ages 4 and up)

Kyoto is also home to Kitano Odori, where maikos and geishas from Kamishichen perform. Here too there is a dance/music performance in the spring with the opportunity to attend a tea ceremony with maikos and geishas beforehand. So it’s similar to what Miyako Odori does, as described above. Kitano Odori has also been around since 1952.

Spotting geishas and maikos in Kyoto

Just like blossom and Mt Fuji, the maiko and geisha are also such an icon that you must see when you are in Japan in my opinion. If you are just not in Japan at the right time to attend Miyako Odori’s theatrical performance, or if you need more, there are also other options.

In certain areas of Kyoto you can find geishas on the streets. A good guide knows when to go where to see maikos and geishas in person (and where it is allowed!). That is the added value of a good tour, plus that you often get to hear interesting stories. If you want/can spend a little more, book your own tea ceremony. Or make it your own fancy dress party.

Visitors to the geisha district of Gion (…) will be denied access to the picturesque alleys. (…) Previous attempts to encourage tourists not to approach these women, including signs and fines of up to ¥10,000 for non-consensual photography, have failed to deter visitors (…).

The Guardian 8 March 2024

Some interesting options:

1. Geisha Culture Guided Walking Tour of Gion District, Kyoto
2. Geisha performance and Kyoto Gion walking tour
3. Kyoto 4 hour Gion Private Guided Tour and Maiko or Geisha dinner
4. Private dinner with a geisha in Kyoto
5. Kyoto Kimono Rental Experience and Maiko Dinner Show
6. Kimono Tea Ceremony in Kyoto Maikoya, NISHIKI
7. Maiko Happy Hour performance Tondaya (no drinks!)

Please note: if it says ‘kimono’, it does not mean that the tea is served by a real maiko or geisha. The price is often that way… (budget version) An hour with a real maiko will cost you more than 220 USD per person.

Gion and Higashiyama

If you would like to see geishas and/or maikos in real life in Kyoto, it is recommended to book your accommodation in Gion or Higashiyama. These historic neighborhoods are located next to each other, northeast of Kyoto Station and the Kamo River. Narrow streets and authentic wooden buildings from the Edo period exude charm. There are several temples that are on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Areas where many authentic tea houses are located are also known as geisha districts. Gion’s most famous geisha district is located between Shijo Avenue and the Kenninki Temple. Hanging out at the wooden Tatsumi Bridge in Gion can pay off; who knows, a geisha might pass by on her way to her next appointment. The boutiques on Hanamikoji Street are nice and the restaurants pricey, but consistently good.

In terms of accommodation type, I would recommend a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. Where to stay? Gion Oyado Kikutani, a nice and affordable ryokan just over a 10-minute walk from the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. Subway station: Gion-Shijo. This is also close to Pontocho Alley, one of the most atmospheric and well-known ‘food streets’ in Kyoto.

There is a lot to see and do in Kyoto anyway, so don’t go for a day but stay a few nights. This way you can get the most out of your visit. And who knows who you might bump into on the street!

Geishas and maikos in Kanazawa

Kanazawa is Japan’s #5 in terms of largest cities in the country. A nice city on the west coast, which I can definitely recommend, if only because of the beautiful castle. Just like in Kyoto, Kanazawa also has geishas and maikos, only fewer tourists. Kanazawa has three districts with geishas and tea houses: Higashi chaya-gai, Nishi chaya and Kazuemachi chaya.

What you can do anyway is visit SHIMA, a geisha house from 1820 in Chaya style that has been transformed into a museum. Advance booking is not necessary, entrance JPY 500 (cash), open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Ochaya Kaikaro organizes a series of performances by geishas and maikos twice a year, in spring and autumn. In October and November 2024 this will be on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between 5:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. Prices are between 12,000 and 16,000 JPY p.p. incl. cup of macha tea, so from USD 82 per person so approximately. There are also options around New Year’s Eve. Out of season you can only book a private performance with a group (from 10 people), with prices starting from 198,000 JPY (approx. USD 1,350). Tip: if you want this, book at least a few months in advance.

At In Kanazawa House, dinners with bento box and geisha/maiko performance are organized all year round (5:50 PM – 8:00 PM) from 150,000 JPY for two people. Then you are talking about the equivalent of more than USD 1,000 and that doesn’t even include drinks yet! In addition, there must be a minimum of five paying people wishing to book this experience.

A more affordable option is a geisha and maiko performance at various teahouses in one of the three geisha districts through Visit Kanazawa. These are on Saturdays between September 7, 2024 and March 29, 2025. Tickets for these cost JPY 2,500-5,000 p.p. In short, just over USD 34 p.p. (if you are no longer a student). For this you will receive an hour (1:00 PM – 2:00 p.m.) of singing, dancing and taiko drumming performed by Kanazawa geishas, ​​as well as a cup of tea with some Japanese sweets.

For those who speak Japanese, try making a reservation at Kikumi restaurant in the Katamachi district of Kanazawa, where a geisha or maiko performs during dinner. My suspicion is that it is pricey.

Memoirs of a Geisha

Perhaps you have become curious about meeting a geisha after reading and/or watching Memoirs of a Geisha? Steven Spielberg produced the film adaptation of the book of the same name. The film has been both criticized and praised, winning several awards, including at the Golden Globes and Academy Awards. It show the time just before World War II.

The story is about a young and pretty Japanese girl named Chiyo, who has bright blue eyes. She and her sister are sold by her parents to a geisha house (okiya) out of poverty. She is trained as a geisha under the pseudonym Sayuri. The owner should call her mother. A harsh reality with a coworker bully.

The American author Arthur Golden is said to have spent at least five years researching before writing the book Memoirs of a Geisha. Quite a few mistakes were made in the filming. For example, the film was not shot in Kyoto and the environment seems busy, while this was not the case.

Furthermore, Sayuri’s solo dance is actually too busy to be a geisha dance. Lots of style mistakes in makeup, hair and clothing. Even the name Sayuri is too simple for a geisha. In addition, the three main actresses are Chinese and not Japanese. But that should not spoil the fun, it remains a beautiful, moving film!

In addition, there is also a book published about the life of a real geisha – Mineko Iwasaki. I still have to read that book, but it seems to be very good and more realistic. I’m curious!

Have you read and/or seen Memoirs of a Geisha yet? And/or have you ever seen a maiko and/or geisha in real life? Or would you like to? In any case, I thought it was a special experience, which I would definitely recommend when you are in Kyoto or West Japan. Have fun anyway. I hope you found this article helpful and interesting. Feel free to share it on social media and/or leave a comment below this article.

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Last Updated on 10/14/2024 by Elisa Flitter Fever